Originally, the tradition of Hawaiian fishermen returning from a trip at sea was to gut freshly caught rock fish, remove the bones and skin, then cut the flesh into cubes(poke in Hawaiian - pronounced [poké] - means "cut into pieces"). Then they seasoned it with whatever they had on hand: often a little sea salt scraped from the shore, some fresh seaweed and fruit from the Moluccan walnut tree, the emblematic tree of the Polynesian islands that have formed the fiftieth state of the United States since 1959... And the whole thing was eaten raw. This simplistic salad, almost a poor man's dish, has remained a staple of local cuisine: you can find it in any grocery shop or mini-market in Hawaii, to take away in trays.
A dish that has been improved with each wave of migration
When the Japanese landed on these volcanic islands around 1800, they brought with them the three essential ingredients of what has become ahi poke, its most popular version: soy sauce, sesame oil and tuna, a fatty fish caught in the deep waters of the Pacific, whose flesh is much more melting than that of rock fish. The Koreans brought kimchi (fermented cabbage), and the Portuguese their bacalhau (cod). And it was the Californians who served it in a big bowl. So much so that today, in the archipelago and elsewhere, you can find all sorts of poke.
Purists won't go near ingredients that have nothing to do with Hawaii's history or terroir, such as the sacrilegious quinoa, chicken, kale or bamboo shoots. The only thing they tolerate is vinegared rice, which makes the dish a tropical counterpart to Japanese chirashi (raw fish on a bowl of rice). But you don't have to be an expert to join the poke bowl lovers who gather every November on the paradise island of Kauai for the Kauai Poke Fest, organised for almost thirty years by Sam Choy, the most highly-rated chef in the archipelago. Professional and amateur cooks share their creations, and it's a feast for the taste buds.
The recipe for the poke bowlis as simple as aloha !
There's nothing easier than concocting an ahi poke at home.
Ask yourfishmonger for tuna (preferably with a sustainable fishing label) to be eaten raw (like sashimi). Cut into regular 2cm cubes.
Mild onions Thinly slice fresh onions. Choose varieties that are soft on the palate, such as those from Lézignan or Roscoff.
A 100% creamy sauce Prepare the marinade by mixing soy sauce, sesame oil, black and white sesame seeds, and finely detailed seaweed (wakame, hijiki, kombu... easily found in Japanese grocery shops or organic shops). Soak the fish in the marinade for no more than 15 minutes to keep it nice and shiny. Do not drain: the marinade will be used as a sauce. Add the onions. Serve with an ice-cold beer!
Read also:
⋙ In Hawaii, a giant telescope project is causing the sacred Maunakea volcano to rumble
⋙ A small Pacific island swallowed up by the waters
⋙ Pad Thai, the pride and joy of the Thai people
